At the end of our street
Porta Pia and Via XX Settembre
Porta Pia is Michelangelo's final architectural work: commissioned by Pope Pius IV around 1561, the gate was left unfinished at the master's death and completed by other architects. But it is 20 September 1870 that sealed Porta Pia's place in history — the Breach, the gap opened by the artillery of the Royal Italian Army in the Aurelian Walls, marked the capture of Rome and the completion of Italian unification.
Attached to the gate, the Historic Museum of the Bersaglieri preserves memorabilia, uniforms, banners and documents of the famed corps — founded in 1836 and the force that led the assault in 1870. Entry is free, the rooms almost always empty: one of those places tourists never find, yet well worth half an hour.
Via Venti Settembre is the quintessential Umbertine boulevard: built in the second half of the nineteenth century to house the ministries of the new Italian state, it is lined with eclectic late-1800s palazzi that speak the same Liberty language as the hotel. Look at the doorways, the cornices, the wrought-iron details — Rome rarely shows this face to those who linger only in the historic centre.